Attempting my first build

[Master Bluespike74]

Ok, I have 3 questions and I hope that I posted them in the right place. 

1.  I want to use the LED's that Ultra sells on his site for my first build.  It will be 1.25" PVC with short section of 1" PVC inside to hold the LED.  I have read on other posts that the regular (not MLS) LED will fit inside a 1" PVC pipe.  I need the outer to be 1.25" so that I can fit the battery pack.  Does resistor information come with the LED or will specs be included so that I know what size resistor to use?  I have seen some builds used without resistors but ran on one 3.7V LiIon Battery.  I am not comfortable building without a resistor as I don't want to fry the LED. 

2.  I want to use a threaded insert to hold my blade retention screw on my PVC lightsaber.  I have found these in large quantities online but they are mostly brass if they are made in America.  Will Brass Threaded Inserts work on PVC or can I get around this by simply drilling and tapping the PVC?

3.  I like the guarded switch that is on my Archon and I want to install one on my PVC build.  My question is how difficult is this to do and can someone give me pointers?  Most tutorials I have read encourage first time builders to use a switch that has the nut on the outside. 

Any help is greatly appreciated as I would really like to make this a hobby to help relieve some of my daily stressors.  My wife will more than likely kill me if I purchase a saber everytime I am stressed.

Thanks,

JJ

[Master Artorius Vidnyl]

1)  Resistors come with the LED.  If you want to give them a heads up you might email Deep to tell him what your power source will be and if you're using a sound board.

2) PVC will not hold a tapped hole.  It's not durable enough to stand against steel screws.  You need the brass piece.

3) Getting that nut on the inside is tricky.  You don't have to use it though, Ultrasabers doesn't.  If you drill the press fit hole to just the right size (5/8th or 9/16th" check with Deep) the switch will stay in without the need for a nut.

Cheers.

[The_Night]

if you are using the gaurded/ standard style switches it is 7/16th, not 9/16ths. the latter is for the AV switch styles.

you can use the standard style switch that TCSS sells and get the nut-bezel to go over it to give a similar look. its much easier for first builds

[Master Bluespike74]

Master Artorius and Night,

Thank you for your super quick responses.  I have been really nervous and excited about this first build and was hitting a road block with the questions I posed. 

So I am yes on the brass piece.  I have found a great wholesale supplier so that will be easy to obtain.  I was worried about being able to find these at first.

I am glad to know the resistor comes with the LED and I will be sure to email Deep prior to ordering.  I will work on the PVC first and then do the electronics after.  I am trying not to rush in the event I find myself in over my head.  I'll invest in the cheaper parts first and then move to the more expensive electronics.

As for the switch, once it is pressed into the hilt, how would one remove it if it needed to replaced? 

I was also planning to secure the LED with hot glue to the 1" PVC insert.  Is this good or should I look to another route?  The best tutorial I could find was last updated in 2009 and it is possible that someone has found a better way to secure LED's other than hot glue.

Thanks many,

JJ

[Master Artorius Vidnyl]

If you use a press fit hole and a standard guarded switch yes you will be able to remove it although it is a delicate process.

[Master Bluespike74]

Master Artorius,

I am not familiar with press fit.  I have researched and from what I can determine, the hole is slightly smaller and the switch is slightly larger and therefore they are jammed in together so that they cannot come apart.  Is how I am describing it accurate? 

How would one push these together?  With a vise? 

Just wondering as the answer will probably determine whether I feel confident to attempt press fit (or have the tools to do such) on my first build or if I need to go the safer (in my opinion) route of using an outside nut switch. 

As always, thanks for everyone's help and swift replies.

JJ

[Master Artorius Vidnyl]

You are very close.  The hole is made to be PRECISELY the minimum size required for the switch to fit it.  You are correct that friction holds the button in place but nothing as drastic as a vice is used to put the switch in.  Pressing down firmly with something like a piece of wood between your hand and the switch will pop it in just fine.  It's enough friction to keep it from coming out on it's own.  It can be pried out though.  And I mean PRIED.  You'll knick your hilt when getting it out.

[Master Bluespike74]

Then pressed fit switch it is.  Thanks.

[Master Bluespike74]

One final question:

1.  What Gauge wire do most of you use?

I have found references to anything from 22AWG to 30AWG with 26AWG being the most common.

Thanks,

[Master Artorius Vidnyl]

I prefer 26 gauge myself.  TCSS sells it by the foot which is convenient.

[The_Night]

i use either 26 or 28 gauge. 26 is what i use most, but if i need to cram alot in small spaces 28 is good because it bends alot easier

[Master Bluespike74]

Ok,

I have started my first PVC saber.  I have taken a 13 inch (33 cm) section of schedule 40 PVC pipe that is 1 and 1/4 inch internal diameter (3.2 cm).  I set my mitre saw to around 30 degrees for an angled emitter cut.  I also took a section of PVC coupler and cut it to 30 degrees as well.  After using a rotary cutter with 60 grit sanding pad, I cleared the separation from the coupler.  Here is a note to someone trying to do the same thing, hammering the coupler onto the pipe will cause some blunting of the coupler.  I could not come to an alternative solution other than to resand it to make a point again. 

I have drilled a hole for the guarded switch (and praying that I can do a press fit as well as Ultra and Deep do).  I found brass 8-32 wood furniture inserts to create a hold for the blade retention screw.  I also drilled some hole around the emitter so that the light of the blade could shine forth.  This was not my best work but hey, it is my very first build. 

Grips were created by taking a PVC cutting tool and were placed every 1/2 inch (1.3cm) apart starting at the pommel end and working toward the switch hole. 

The pommel took some creative steps as I was originally going to use a female apapter with a male plug.  This made the saber too long and the plug could not be tightened enough to give a flush look.  I scrapped this idea for a cap.  I drilled a hole through the cap and the pipe and used a screw to hold the cap in place.  To make for easier on/off, the blade retention screw and pommel screw are both phillips head so that a simple screw drive is all that is needed to remove these.

Right now, I am trying to ascertain how to get the blade and LED module placed.  My current plan is to use a 1 inch (2.5 cm) internal diameter piece of PVC that will rest against the guarded switch.  I plan to glue the LED into place and let the blade sit inside the PVC with the LED acting as a stop.  If one blade retention screw does not hold the blade or makes the blade tilt, I will install a 2nd screw as a counter balance.

If I am going down a bad path for the LED and blade, please let me know.  I am going to paint prior to doing any electronic work and this will probably take several weeks.  I also need to save, order and receive the electronics also.

Thanks,

JJ

PS.  I will post plenty of pics and a video when I am finished with this build.

[Master Bluespike74]

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOciIsrxd-M" target="_blank" class="aeva_link bbc_link new_win">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOciIsrxd-M</a>

This should get you to the video of the saber.  I had to speak quietly as I was very tired and my animals were asleep.

JJ