Simple Weathering Tutorial (example pics included)

[richmbailey]

After much research online to find easy and quick ways to do weathering, I tried the method below. Using this method does not damage the saber but uses paint to create the weathered look without damaging the components (scratches, dents, etc). It also doesn't require disassembling of the saber. For my practice run I used a Hasbro Force FX saber (pics below). This will be the method I use moving forward with any customizing I do for my US hilts.

Tools
a. Lint Free Rags
b. Testers Paint (Flat black, Cafe Brown, Metallic gray)
c. Testers Thinner (clean)
d. Paint brushes, one thin/soft bristles, one wider/firm bristles
e. Small clean containers for mixing paint
f. Q-tips
g. Clear coat (optional)

Steps

1. Clean all parts thoroughly with a very lightly damp rag (lint free).

2. Pour Black and Brown paint into tray (about 40/60). Add paint thinner and mix to a watery consistency.

3. With small thin brush paint into the grooves of the part. The thin paint should start to seep into the grooves.

4. Let dry for about 20 minutes (or use a hair dryer for faster drying).

5. Add more paint in the thicker grooves and repeat as many times as required for the desired level of weathering you want.

6. Once the paint part is completed, use a Q-tip and dip it into the clean thinner. Roll it on a paper towel to remove access.

7. Gently wipe away the exposed areas of the hilt. Try to avoid removing any paint in the grooves. Let dry for about 10 minutes
   and use a lint free rag to wipe away additional paint if desired.

8. If you accidently remove too much, you can repeat steps 3 to darken the grooves again.

9. Once completed, wait a good 24 hours for the paint to set in full, then you can use a thin coat of clear coat to protect your work.

** Additional tips for black powder coated sections.

If you want to add more scraped metal look, you can add a bit of metallic gray and brown and use the dry brush technique tips. I did this with metallic silver.
in Darth Rifter's tutorial here > http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=7716.0

You can also add a bit more red or orange based colors to the mix if you are going for a rusted look.

Below is a finished hilt using this method (I will be converting this Hasbro to a Luxeon LED with removable blade soon!)

[Darth Vapour]

Nice work. That's one thing I have yet to try. Thanks for the tips

[crisjim4]

That looks amazing I'm thinking if I do any weathering I'm going mess with my airbrush a bit 

[Relan Tarel jedi kinght]

Hard to beleve that that's a hasbro it looks awsom now.

[richmbailey]

Hard to beleve that that's a hasbro it looks awsom now.

Thanks! Next up I am getting it converted to a Luxeon LED so I can have a removable blade and get rid of the blade with the LED string.

Other than that the hilt is well built and fairly durable.

[Relan Tarel jedi kinght]

Are you going to be upgrading the sound or just replacing the led strip with a lux green?
I cecently did a full over haul with my kit fisto. I tell you what it was a real experience. If your just doing the led just be warned hasbro has some pittifull soldering, lots of hot glue and verry small guage wires

[richmbailey]

Are you going to be upgrading the sound or just replacing the led strip with a lux green?
I cecently did a full over haul with my kit fisto. I tell you what it was a real experience. If your just doing the led just be warned hasbro has some pittifull soldering, lots of hot glue and verry small guage wires

Only the LED will be installed. It will keep the Hasbro sound/electronics. I am actually commissioning someone else to do the work. I will keep the original Blue since it's an Obi Wan not a Luke hilt.

If I did the wiring it would be a debacle.