I just tried pulling my switch out to take a picture, but it's in there pretty good (which I guess is a good thing). But I do remember how I wired it (using this diagram
http://www.saberforum.com/index.php?topic=8667.30):
The "+" pin is for the positive-battery/vin (Obsidian)/vin+ (buckpuck) wire. That little resistor acts as a bridge between the "+" pin and said wire. I completely covered it in heat shrink as recommended. As for the numbers of the resistor, I'm not sure. I just used the one that they send in the little baggy that held the switch.
The "-" pin is for the vin- (buckpuck)/led (Obsidian) wire.
The other two remaining C1 and NO pins are for the negative-battery/gnd (Obsidian) wire and the btn (Obsidian) wire, respectively.
I had the same confusion about which is which, but seeing as they are not marked "NO" and "C1", it doesn't matter - as I was similarly advised - because the current will do it's thing automatically. You would only have problems if you had, for example: the C1 opposite the "+".
And that diagram does work with the Obsidian 3.0 (because that's what I have
)
**An additional note regarding switch wiring: make sure you have about 6 inches of wiring coming out of the switch hole when the speaker/Obsidian/buckpuck is fully inside the hilt, so it will give you the slack you need to access the batteries once the switch is fully installed (I learned the hard way! lol).
Regarding the switch hole, I sent Emory an email and he had me send only the hilt and a copy of the email to their repairs department. They drilled it to 9/16" and sent it back in about 1.5weeks time. If you didn't receive a switch resistor, I would include that bit of info in your email as well and I'm sure they'll take care of that too. The resistor is VERY tiny, so double check that it isn't hiding between the pages of the info paper that came folded with the switch, or elsewhere.
You're very welcome and I hope this helps!