Saber Forum

I would like to paint my two Aeons Black and gold but I heard AL is hard to paint. Any sugjestions? I also don't want the paint to get worn fast.

I helped my friend paint his SI and we simply applied primer, let it dry, and 2 coats of the color choices. We were painting it a jet black. It came out fine. Just make sure you do not do it too thick. I am on the fence about painting my Initiate V2 LE that is coming in.

Depending on budget and such, the most durable way will actually be to either anodize or powder coat. Neither is really a DIY option for most folks though, and both would require complete disassembly of your saber to be done.

before painting clean the hilt with a little rubbing alcohol to get off any oils from your hands. there is really no need to prime but if you want to you can , it wont hurt. just use an enamel spray paint, i prefer rustoleum. two or three coats should be good, lightly sanding with a fine steel wool (000) between coats. make sure the paint is thoroughly dry before sanding. when you are done just use a couple of coats of clear coat to protect the paint from wearing too fast, it wont keep it looking perfect forever. it depends on how much dueling you will be doing , you can add more clear coats if you want but remember the hilt will be pretty slick so you might want to add some sort of grip. good luck, and hope to see some pics when you are done.

you could always look up a paint baking tutorial though you would have to pull all the electronics out to do so also youd need an oven you werent ever goin to use for food again

I have multiple sabers I would like to paint, and a search revealed this thread.  For those who painted their sabers: How did work out?  In my experience, painting aluminum (for a lasting quality finish) involves etching primers followed with zinc bathes, concluded with a deionized water rinse.  I would like to apply a 3M rubberized undercoating to the "grip" area of the hilt.  Anyone have experience doing this?

But remember when you do it you have to sing this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfmAzoILaK8# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfmAzoILaK8#) and replace "roses"with  "Saber" and "red" with whatever color you're doing it...unless of course it is red.  ;D

After a few weeks, 3 "ordinary" prophecy lightsabers are now extraordinary.
After speaking with a machinist, who routinely works with aluminum, & a bike shop which paints metal frames, I thought I would share what I have learned. 
For lightsabers which have seen heavy battle (read: deep marks & pits) start reading here, for lightsabers which have just been purchased skip down.

Begin with a fine "single cut" file, lifting the file after each stroke, to ensure a uniform surface (file was purchased at Lowe's - $10)
Dry sand with 600 grit (purchased at Lowe's - $8)
(take a trip to AutoZone and visit the paint section to purchase wet sand paper multipack and aluminum/metal polish - $15)
Using a lubriciant (TriFlo (has teflon)- $8) wet sand with 1000 grit
Using a lubricant, wet sand with 1500 grit
NEW SABERS start here
Using a lubriciant, wet with 2000 grit
Using a lubriciant, wet with 2500 grit
Finish with the aluminum polish

The end result is a mirror finish surpassing the nickel plating finish.

My personal touch was to tape the depressions in the handle, which are polished, with masking tape and dry sand the handle with 300 grit.  After cleaning with Acetone, I taped the rest of the saber.   Rustoleum flat-black textureed spary paint was applied to the handle.  And I promply removed the taped sections of the depressed grooves, again, which are mirror polished. 

!! Spectacular results !!


For a bit of contrast, I dry sanded the raised "button portion" of the saber with 600 grit, which offers a lovely "brushed" aluminum finish.

The remaining 2 prophecy sabers, forming a prophecy staff, I inverted the handle color scheme.  The depressed grooves are sprayed with flat-black texutured paint, while the hanlde was drysanded with 600 grit.

Each saber, from start to finish, took about 6 hours of work.  A great weekend project, or couple nites a week.
A great way to customize your saber.

Sounds like very nice, rewarding work.  I'd love to see some pictures.

Tried posting a few pics.  For all my efforts, I was rewarded with a big red "x".
I'll try again in a day or so.

Here is the finished double-bladed prophecy.

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/IMG_0598.jpg)

Here is a closer look at the one of the prophecy sabers. 

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/IMG_0600.jpg)

That can out very nicely. I like.

I was trying to get an angle that would capture the polished portions, brushed portions, and texture painted portions.

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/IMG_0597.jpg)

Thank you.
All compliments graciously received.

I will post pics of my 3rd prophecy, tomorrow (it's at the office).   My 3rd prophecy was actually my first customization, the handle is flat-black textured paint while the depressed groves are polished to a mirror finish.  It's hard to capture the mirrored/polished finish with a flash.

One of the biggest challenges I faced was lining the sabers up, after the handled were fully seated/screwed down.  I ended up using both prophecy end caps, butting the sabers together, and marking the endcaps.  I then took the marked endcaps to a machine shop, who wielded the aluminum caps together, make one connector.  I took some thick gauge (rugged) PVC pipe, and measured the gap between the 2 sabers, and cut the PVC pipe to fill the gap.  Sanded the PVC pipe.  Sprayed with primer which would adhere to PVC, then applied a color I liked.

My original method was to take the original Ultrasabers Prophecy connector and add 4 #17 O-rings (package of 8 is $3 at LOWES/Home Depot).  The O-rings provided enough space/cushion that I could get the orientation of the sabers as pictured above.  The sabers were snug, but duel worthy.


(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/IMG_0604.jpg)


Here is the "cheap" O-ring coupler installed:

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/IMG_0605.jpg)



Here is a close-up:

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/IMG_0606.jpg)

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/lightsaber/IMG_0626.jpg)

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/lightsaber/IMG_0623.jpg)

(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j366/danpayne1/lightsaber/IMG_0622.jpg)

If you are speaking of any possible options then powder coating is a good one, as is an epoxy, but to keep the metal texture I would anodize the pieces

(http://cladfabrication.com/Portals/14/Services/AnodizedPartsSmall.jpg)

(I saw the thread was older so I am speaking to others who are interested)

Your polished efforts look great by the way!

 ;D

Thank you.

The photos do not accurately capture the polished metal, not sure why. 
The finish for the single saber is more polished than the double-bladed saber (staff).

Anyway, thank you for your positive remarks.